How to Get Started with O-Gauge Model Trains

Why O-Gauge?

• Many O-gauge trains are built to played with and passed on for generations.  Even many starter sets include die-cast steel locomotives and cars with many metal parts.
• It is easy to incrementally upgrade a starter set with even higher-quality cars and locomotives and trackside accessories as the years go by
• What about cost?  Although O-gauge equipment initially costs more than HO gauge, it not only lasts longer but holds its value.  Used equipment can be resold easily. Rarer pieces sometimes appreciate. 
• The best O-gauge locomotives are both finely-crafted machines and true works of art.  You might not be able to collect Porsches, but you could collect some of the best toy trains ever produced. You can buy pristine examples of many collectable locomotives for a few hundred dollars.

Why Not O-Gauge?

• Cost: an O-gauge starter set or layout is several times the cost of an HO gauge layout of the same (scale) size and quality.
• Durability under hard use: most modern O-gauge sets won't stand up to hard use, for example, unattended play by children. There are two potential sources of trouble: the electronics in modern engines can be damaged by derailments, and more expensive engines and cars have many detail parts (handrails, etc) that can break off. The very sturdiest choice for children would be Lionel's most basic, non-electronic Pennsylvania Flyer set, which still uses 1950's era technology - or buy an inexpensive 1950's era set at a garage sale or train show. Otherwise, children are probably better off with a G-scale set (most are less prone to electronic damage, and are made of thick, sturdy, weather-resistant plastic) or an inexpensive HO set that you won't mind having destroyed.
• The space needed for an minimal O layout is larger than for an HO layout, but not by as much as you might think. If you are happy with a "toy train" style, you can build a nice layout in 4 x 8 feet, or even 3 x 6 feet - see my Layouts directory. A very realistic ("high rail") layout, on the other hand, can easily fill a room. If you are space-constrained and want realism, you should consider HO or N scale.

Where to Shop?

• Find a local store that specializes in O-gauge model trains.  Forget about toy stores (except as noted below)!  The best search engine is http://www.hobbyretailer.com/. A big advantage of buying locally is that the dealer will repair or replace defective merchandise under warranty - and due to the many mechanical and electronic parts in O-gauge trains, defects are unfortunately not rare. If you save $10 by buying mail-order and then spend $20 mailing a defective piece back, your savings is negative!
• Although there are many train dealers online, few have lower prices than you find locally. An online store with good service and good prices is trainz.com. The store WholesaleTrains.com (also known as Lantz Hobbies) has a very large selection and low prices, but their shipping charges are unpredictable (you have to telephone to learn what the shipping charges will be for your order) as is how well the merchandise is packed (they often reuse old boxes taped together for shipping).
• Avoid Ebay and flea markets until you have some experience: the prices can be higher than from a reputable dealer.  If a deal sounds too good to be true (e.g., "50% off!") it certainly is.  Quality O-gauge trains are a low-volume business; enormous discounts below list prices simply do not exist (but see the information below about starter sets during the 2009 Christmas season).
• Model train shows are a great place to see operating layouts and new and used merchandise from a large number of dealers. There probably is a show near you at least once a year. Many traveling shows are organized by Greenberg Shows. The Train Collectors Association (TCA) organizes a huge show twice a year in York, Pennsylvania. (To attend York, you need to be with a TCA member or join TCA yourself, which requires being sponsored by a member. You can find members willing to sponsor you on the O-Gauge Forum or by contacting TCA directly.)
• Many hobbyists like to collect antique trains to display or run. Trains produced up to 1942 are called "pre-war", and those from 1945 to 1969 "post-war". (No model trains were manufactured in the USA during its involvement in WWII. The golden age of post-war trains was the 1950's.) Almost all O-gauge trains are electrically compatible - if the motor is in good condition, you can run a train from 1945 on a modern layout. Before you even think of going to a train auction, however, you should educate yourself about models, terminology, and prices by getting the Standard Catalogs of Lionel Trains by David Doyle, volumes 1 (pre-war) and 2 (post-war).
  • If you can't attend live auctions in persons, I have had good experience with using LiveAuctioneers to place bids on items before or during auctions. Search on "Lionel" at the site to find upcoming model train auctions. A great feature of online auctions is that you can decide how much in advance the most you want to pay for an item, and then record a "sealed bid" for that amount. At the auction, your bids will be placed for lower amounts up to your limit (just like Ebay). This way, you'll avoid getting caught up in a frenzy and overpaying. In addition, some train auctions go on for days. Items that come up for auction at inconvenient times of the day often sell at low prices, because few people are attending in person at that time.

Which Brand to Buy?

• Starting in 2003, Lionel starter sets come with Fastrack track.  It is quite sturdy when locked together. The rails are attached to a wide, solid plastic base, so it is fine to use even on heavy carpet.  The Fastrack manual switches are unique in that they will not derail the train if it runs into it "backwards". With other kinds of track you must buy more expensive remote-controlled switches to avoid frequent derailments. In 2003 Lionel introduced a new transformer for many of their starter sets, the CW-80, that is both good-looking and quite powerful. Unfortunately, from 2006-2008 they included a very low-powered, poorly designed transformer called the "PowerMax" in their cheapest sets, which should be avoided.
• MTH uses a similar but incompatible track called RealTrax, which they introduced years before Lionel.  It is a bit more realistic looking than Fastrack, and also is sturdy and can be set up on a carpeted floor. MTH was founded in 1980 by a model-train enthusiast who wanted to recapture the glory days of model railroading, and ever since has built a strong reputation for the highest quality equipment.  MTH makes several different product lines:  Their popular RailKing line of traditional trains includes many starter sets.  The Premier line is aimed at adults who collect highly accurate scale models of real trains.  Finally, MTH has a unique Tinplate Traditions line of reproductions of early turn of the century (1900, that is!) toy trains made out of stamped metal that are a larger scale, called "Standard Scale".
• Atlas-O makes detailed, high-quality scale-size trains aimed at adults who want to create realistic ("high rail") layouts. They have concentrated on diesel engines, but in 2007 offered their first steam engine model. In 2007 they also came out with their first starter set that includes an engine, cars, and track (but no transformer). Atlas track is much more realistic looking than either Lionel Fastrack or MTH RealTrax, but the sections do not lock together as strongly, so it should be set up on a table rather than a carpeted floor. Most Atlas-O engines are compatible with Lionel TMCC remote control.
• Williams was a small independent company producing replicas of postwar Lionel trains until the owner retired in 2008. Fortunately, rather than disappearing, the company was bought by Bachmann, a large European toy company, which had previously been known for HO and N gauge trains. Williams trains incorporate few electronics and no remote control, and are built like rocks. However, their starter sets are considerably pricier than those from Lionel or MTH.
• Weaver is another small company that manufactures O-gauge trains and buildings right in Northumberland, Pennsylvania. It is the only company described here that builds trains in the USA. It appeals mainly to adult collectors who want the very highest quality and detail. They do not sell starter sets and their engines are pricey, but they also have a huge range of rolling stock (cars) and wooden and plastic buildings which are very affordable.
• Up until 2005, there was another major independent O-gauge train company, K-Line. Their higher-end collectible engines were typically 30% cheaper than the Lionel or MTH versions of those same locomotives. Another unique feature of K-Line's higher-end engines is that they could negotiate standard 031-inch (diameter) curves; nearly all of the more expensive engines from Lionel and MTH require 042-inch or even larger curves. For example, see their beautiful "Shay" engine (that historically was used for logging on steep mountain lines). K-Line licensed Lionel's TMCC remote control system. Unfortunately, they also tried to improve on Lionel's "cruise control" by buying Lionel's electronic designs from an unscrupulous Lionel employee. As a result, Lionel sued K-Line, K-Line lost, and was eventually acquired by an overseas manufacturer which in turn licensed its name back to Lionel! In 2007 Lionel introduced the "K-Line by Lionel" line of products that features semi-scale, 031-compatible engines and cars, as well as a unique line of electric streetcar track called SuperStreets.

Judging Quality

• The body of steam locomotive should be die-cast metal.  The upper body of a diesel engine will be plastic, but if you turn it over all you should see is metal.  All of the companies mentioned above include such engines in some of their least expensive starter sets - but there are some unfortunate exceptions, so check before buying!
• For rolling stock, check whether the "trucks" (the things the wheels attach to) are plastic or steel.  Steel trucks are sturdier and their weight helps keep the car on the track.  If the trucks are steel, check if the carriage (the bottom of the car) is steel as well - another good sign.  The rest of the body is likely to be plastic, even in more expensive equipment, but there are some exceptions.  Both MTH and K-Line make freight cars with metal die-cast bodies, but a line of several such cars will be too heavy for many engines to pull.  The more expensive passenger cars from all three manufacturers are made of aluminum. Most pre-war rolling stock is made of thin stamped steel called tinplate.

Sounds, Remote Control, and Transformers

Traditional O-gauge trains include a electro-mechanical horn and (rarely) a bell.  Although such trains still appear in starter sets, most modern O-gauge locomotives include electronic sound systems of varying degrees of sophistication. They provide sounds of chuffing, steam release, brakes, whistle, bell, and radio chatter from a train crew.

Recommended Starter Sets

• Lionel Pennsylvania Flyer with Air Whistle Set - $160 (but hard to find at that price)
• Lionel Santa Fe Steam Freight Train with Air Whistle Set- $200
• Lionel's Alaska Steam Work Train Set - $200
• Lionel New York Central Flyer Railsounds Set - $250
• Lionel Polar Express Set - $250
• MTH Pennsylvania 2-8-0 Steam Passenger RTR Train Set with PS2 (ProtoSound 2.0) - $280
• MTH Pennsylvania 2-8-0 Steam Freight RTR Train Set with PS2 (ProtoSound 2.0) - $280

More Information

• O-Gauge Forum
• O-Gauge Railroading Magazine
• Classic Toy Trains Magazine
• Thors All Gauge Page
• Train Collectors Association (TCA)